Shears 101: What Every Stylist Needs to Know Before Spending $1,000 on Scissors
Nick MirabellaLet’s be real — one of the biggest investments you’ll make as a stylist (besides your education and chair rent) is your shears. But here’s the problem:
Most stylists don’t actually know what they’re buying — or worse, they’ve been burned by shady sharpeners, confusing marketing, and overpriced tools that don’t deliver.
In a recent conversation with Mason Denton, owner of 44 Shears, we went deep on what really separates high-quality shears from gimmicky ones, how sharpening can make or break your investment, and what every stylist should know to protect their craft (and their wallet).
Are You Wasting $1,000 on Shears?
It’s the question every stylist asks:
“Is this $1,000 shear actually better than one that costs $150?”
The answer? It depends — on the materials, construction, edge type, and sharpening.
Many shears are priced based on brand, not build. If you’re paying a premium just for the name, without understanding what’s inside the metal, you might be wasting your money.
Casted vs. Forged: The #1 Thing That Affects Shear Quality
“If you’re spending money on a shear, stay away from casted ones.”
Casted shears (often made in Pakistan) are molded like toys — they’re brittle and prone to breaking.
Forged shears, on the other hand, are shaped under extreme pressure. This makes them:
- More flexible
- More durable
- Easier to sharpen and maintain
Rule of thumb: If it’s not forged, it’s not worth your money.
Steel Matters: The Truth About Alloys and Edge Retention
When it comes to steel, not all blends are created equal.
Key materials to look for:
- VG10: High-end steel that holds a razor edge
- Super Cobalt Alloys: Found in Mason’s “Above” shears — excellent hardness and durability
“The Brunell hardness should be in the low 60s. That’s a sweet spot — hard enough to hold an edge, but not brittle.”
Convex vs. Beveled Edges: Why Japanese-Style Wins
Convex shears (common in Japanese-style tools) offer a smoother, more precise cut, and can be resharpened multiple times without degrading performance.
“After five sharpenings, a convex shear still looks and cuts great — if done right.”
Beveled edges (especially found on cheap or colored shears) dull faster and can feel like cutting with kitchen scissors.
Colored Shears = Red Flags?
Here’s what most stylists don’t know:
That pretty rainbow or matte black coating? It often means your shear has a beveled edge — and once it’s sharpened, the coating chips, the edge dulls fast, and your $300 investment becomes useless.
“Colored shears aren’t made for real sharpening. You’re buying the look, not the performance.”
Dry Cutting Demands Specialized Shears
Dry cutting is harder on your tools than wet cutting. Why?
“Dry hair is abrasive — it wears down blades fast.”
If you do a lot of dry work, invest in a dry-cutting shear with:
- Heavier blades
- Rounded tips
- Extra cutting power
This reduces wear and tear and keeps your work clean and effortless.
Why Stylists Don’t Trust Sharpeners — and How Mason Is Fixing That
Let’s face it: most stylists have had a horror story about a bad sharpener.
Whether it’s:
- Botched bevels
- Stripped coatings
- Poor service
The result is the same — mistrust.
That’s why Mason Denton is doing it differently with 44 Shears:
- 30-day satisfaction guarantee
- 24-hour turnaround
- Loaner shears during service
- Free first sharpening for new clients
- Shipping kits with prepaid labels
“Even if I get it wrong, I’ll make it right.”
Shear Maintenance = Skill Protection
You’d be shocked how many stylists drop $1,000 on shears… and then toss them around like plastic combs.
Here’s what Mason wants every stylist to know:
- Close your shears before setting them down
- Use different shears for dry vs. wet cutting
- Avoid cleaning with harsh chemicals
- Sharpen them properly with a trusted pro
“If you’re spending real money on your tools, you should understand their anatomy and how to care for them.”
Brand Hype vs. Real Quality
Hanzo. Shark Fin. Mizutani. You’ve heard the names.
But are you paying for performance — or branding?
“What you’re paying for with Hanzo is the brand and the service — not necessarily better steel or longer lifespan.”
Some lesser-known brands (like Above) offer forged, high-quality shears with better edge retention for a fraction of the price.
Always check the materials, not just the logo.
Bonus Insight: What About LLCs and Loaner Models?
Mason’s business model is a game-changer:
- Stylists can demo shears before buying
- He provides shipping kits for easy sharpening
- Above shears are forged with super cobalt and designed by industry veteran Alex Lee
It’s not just about tools — it’s about trust, transparency, and building better habits behind the chair.
Final Thoughts: Smart Stylists Invest Wisely
You don’t have to spend $1,000 to get a good shear — but you do need to understand what makes a shear worth the investment.
If you want to:
- Protect your cutting game
- Avoid being burned by bad sharpening
- Finally feel confident in what you’re buying
Then it’s time to get educated, ask better questions, and work with people who actually care.
Your tools are an extension of your talent — make sure they’re working as hard as you are.
Want to Learn More?
💡 Want to connect with Mason and learn more about 44 Shears or demo a pair of Above shears?
📦 DM me “SHEARS” and I’ll get you the info and shipping kit details.
Wacth Full Podcast HERE